With an early rise, Woody thankfully started crawling again as we booted toward The Archways, just out from Chillagoe. As we were following Stu were fortunate to spot an Emu shoot across the road with it’s baby in Stu’s dust trail. Leaving camp so early we decided to have breakfast at another Indigenous site with a few rock paintings. These quiet mystical gardens around the art reminded us of a scene from Lord of the Rings.
Only another 700m up the road we came across The Archways. This self guided cave system was spectacular. We went at our own pace, quickly discovering to gain access into the real depths of the cave you needed to be unbelievably skinny or a 5 year old. Being neither, we still enjoyed exploring around. After leaving the main cave system we climbed up a cliff and found another small entrance with a tight squeeze. Sneaking through we came head to head with a few bats. Not knowing who was more scared, Stu smacked his back and Mark his shoulder while the bats bumped into us!
Leaving the magnificent caves behind we arrived at Chillagoe. We were so excited to be able to swim at the weir as it had been a long time since our bathe in fresh water at Laura. We spent a while taking silly selfies of us bombing into the water and finally getting the ‘perfect’ photo. Achieving this, Stu continued to limp toward Herberton as we stayed to check out a couple of other places of interest around Chillagoe.
A short drive from the town centre and we were at the Balancing Rock. Walking through a similar paranormal environment as The Archways, this giant balancing boulder had minimal points of contact with the ground and looked to almost be falling over. Trying to help keep it up, Nay nailed her positioning with the camera but Mark seemed to be a little off!
A last stop at The Smelters was incredibly fascinating. There was an abundance of information on how each chimney played its roll to break down the rock to obtain the ore. The most interesting fact was that these chimneys were 3.75m wide with an astounding 1m thick wall! Even though the Chillagoe Smelters treated 1,250,000 tonnes of ore while producing the largest remaining slag dump (mining waste), it remained unprofitable over its lifetime. It did however, boost North Queensland’s prosperity by creating thousands of jobs and opening up the uncharted QLD outback!
Chasing after Stu towards Herberton we passed many marble piles containing endless amounts of 20 tonne marble cubes – a large industry around Chillagoe! On the way we ducked into the Montalbion Pioneer Cemetery which was a sad visit. Of the 68 people buried there, 32 of them were children under 10! Montalbion was a pioneering town from the late 1800’s to the early 1900’s and these deaths obviously highlighted how tough their lives were. Finally making it to Herberton we dodged the caravan park and were recommended to camp by the river by the bloke at tourist info. Back in civilisation we made a necessary stop to the butcher. That night we feasted on reasonably priced nibblies and red meat. This was a welcomed experience having lived off tinned soup and chunky for the last 2 weeks!
As the AFL grandfinal was coming up we went to Atherton thinking it would have some atmosphere. However, the 3 of us were the only ones drinking in the bistro (because the gamblers kicked us out from the sportsbar) with a couple of occasional onlookers. No one seemed to care for the sport but we were still over the moon that Doggies smashed Sydney!
The last days before Buzz and Woody parted ways we had planned to go out with a bang. Heading to Lake Tinaroo we found a great spot for one last big night and say goodbye to Big Red. After Nay made a delicious apple crumble in the camp oven, we played ball games, stoked a big fire, pumped the music and drinking games started. The night flew by and as we were about to jump into bed, we realised Big Red was still up and about partying!! He had once again survived a big fire dance. We decided it best to leave him at the lake in hope someone finds him and loves him as much as we did.
This leads us to the end of the ‘She’ll Be Right Tour 2016’. This is what we lived by on Cape York and whenever we were unsure, the answer was always ‘She’ll be right!’. Spending a total of 7 weeks, 2760kms, endless laughs, unforgettable memories and a few serious hang overs, we truly did see and experience the Cape at its fullest. Along with these moments we couldn’t forget the minor inconveniences that occurred along the way. Stu thankfully made a tally of these which included:
When we left Cairns we didn’t expect to do or see the things we have. Adventuring through the Bloomfield, exploring the amazing beaches of The Cape, tackling the challenges of the OTT, catching and tasting the abundance of sea creatures on TI and surviving the wild Old Coach Road has created memories that are going to stick with us for life.
After one last goodbye we parted ways with Stu as we went the opposite direction. A change of scene was on our horizon as we made our way west, back to a familiar Territory…
27/09/2016 – 05/10/2016












