Tag Archives: Waterfalls

Coastal Queensland

A Wet Expedition Through Atherton Tablelands

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As we continued our crawl along the Cassowary Coast we decided to stop off at a couple of beautiful beaches for a days rest.  One in particular, Etty Bay, was a quiet tucked away cove with an extremely low population.  Lucky for us as we lounged in the sun a cassowary emerged from the shrubbery to have a suss of what we were up to.  Not intimidated at all, he slowly  strolled only 1 metre from us!  After these peaceful relaxing beach stops it was time for us to make our way towards the Atherton Tablelands.

Starting down the southern end of the tablelands we set up camp at Henrietta Creek Camping Area.  Here we were able to set up right in amoungst the rainforest, what a living room!  From this area there were also fantastic walking trails to a variety of waterfalls nearby.  All were on our to do list.

Arriving late afternoon we took full oppurtunity while the sun was still out to go for a swim in the brown yet flowing “Bush Pool”.  Even though it was murky compared to our other freshwater holes, it was still great for a swim.  As the sun slipped away over the horizon, we thought we were in for a treat with beautiful clear days to explore the area.  Oh how we were wrong.

We woke to the continuous sound of a seriously heavy downpoor of rain, our activities for the day were delayed.  Hiding in the tent all morning lead us to almost losing sanity as the dry season seemed awfully wet!  Lacing up our boots, we put our rain jackets on and set off into the miserable flood-like rain.  Aiming to complete a 6.6km loop to Nandroya Falls, we had a positive mindset that at least the falls will be cranking with all this rain!

Initially doubting our small expedition, the path was saturated and river crossings were already starting to look flooded!  After a short navigation through puddles and an overgrown walkway, we made it to Silver Falls with the entire rock wall powerfully flowing from the extra rain.  Slowly we were becoming more and more saturated.

Another half hour in, we had made it to the main attraction, Nandroya Falls.  The rain did not disappoint, demonstrating the crushing impact these falls had to offer.  Below were smaller overflows of water which with quick realisation would not be cascading if it weren’t for the rain.  Continuing around the loop the rain didn’t ease off. Being the optional longer circuit, we gathered it was less traversed as there was more shrub and fern attempting to take over the track.

Soaked to the bone, we soldiered on over waterways.  Regular leech checks lead to peeling an odd one off the leg as we walked until Nay felt something on her back.  Mark checked it out to discover a blood sucking parasite mid way up Nay’s back!  Fun times!!  As we arrived back at the first river crossing of the circuit, we were gobsmacked that it was no longer a rock crossing but an unbroken torrent of water.  From the torrential rain our past crossing had been engulfed by the river.  Left with only one option, we staggered  shin deep through the swell.  Upon conducting our now regular leech check, we discovered we had acquired over a dozen leeching friends, soon to be swatted like flies!

Back at camp, we dried off and laughed at what we had just been through.  It was already late arvo at this stage but the rain had not let off.  Cowering back in the tent with a cuppa, we threw a movie on until it was time for bed. 

Waking up the next day to our astonishment, the rain was just as heavy!  Having to cross off a couple of the smaller walking trails off our list we departed for the hope of drier pastures.  While still drizzling, we made our way to the Milla Milla Waterfall Circuit (a small 15km loop).  Home of Ellinjaa Falls, Zillie Falls and of coarse, Milla Milla Falls.  These all entailed a short walk in to see each cascade and as with previous waterfalls, each had their small differences that made them amazing in their own way.  Some even included small waterholes for a swim which may have of been appealing if we weren’t already so wet!

Back in town they had a display of a fallen Giant Kauri Pine Tree which had fallen only 20km from Milla Milla due to the root system no longer being able to sustain the tree.  This mammoth tree was approximately 870 years old, with a 2.7m diameter and an 8.5m circumference.  1m of the trunk was equal to 4 tonnes of timber – impressive!!  This would not be the last of these beasts we were to see.  As the weather was clearing, we cruised further around to discover what else the Atherton Tablelands had to offer…

Coastal Queensland

A Trek Through Fresh Waterholes

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This next stage of our adventure is where we spent the better part of a week hopping from waterhole to waterfall.  The fresh water journey started with a rocky playground.

Stop 1 – The Paradise Waterhole & Rock Slides

Just out from Townsville we made it to Paluma Range National Park early in the morning to enjoy breakfast with nature.  We thought it would be more relaxing than the roadside stop we’d slept at the night before.  A 100m walk to the ‘Paradise Waterhole’ and we had to catch our breath as we plunged into the clearest, freshest (coldest) water.  Now fully awake, we ventured a little further down the road where we found a sign marked ‘Rock Slides’.  Waterslides of all varieties were scattered in this natural water park.  We mucked around on a series of slides while some onlookers laughed with us as we slid.  Making our way further down we stumbled across a small waterfall and a smaller slide.  It wasn’t long until we stacked rocks over a floodway to create a new slide which was longer and faster!!

Stop 2 – Some Fresh Fruit & Jourama Falls

Back on the road we stumbled across a farm fresh fruit stall where the farmer had just restocked!  She was the dearest person passionately explaining the unique tropical fruits to us as we loaded some up for an absolute steal (an enormous cucumber for 40c!)  Once the big bag of fruit and veg was loaded in the car we made our way to Jourama Falls.  On the way to the lookout we had a steep climb before opening up to a view overlooking the falls.  The water flowed from one cascade to another over a vast distance. Quite spectacular!  Enjoying the sights and taking silly selfies on the return trip, we bumped into another snake (becoming quite common now) which thankfully slithered into the bush!

Stop 3 – The Longest Pier & The Highest Waterfall

The next stop was from an extreme length to an incredible height.  First, was the longest pier in the southern hemisphere that was constructed in Lucinda.  At a total length of 6km, this was one monster of a pier.  Unfortunately walking on the pier is prohibited as its purpose is to allow cane trains to travel out to load giant freighters.  Standing on the beach it seemed to just disappear into the horizon.

Going from the longest, we then found ourselves in front of the highest single drop waterfall in Australia, Wallaman Falls (cascading a massive 268m).  Awe struck to say the least, we stood gazing at the sight before us on the lookout platform.  Not enough, we decided to take the plunge to the base of the falls which was an incredible test of fitness.  From an open forest into the depths of a rainforest the temperature dropped and the air became thicker.  The steep decent down had paid off, we found ourselves at the base of this mammoth waterfall.  As the sun crept out from behind the clouds, a rainbow (even a double rainbow at one point!) appeared before our eyes as the mist caused the light to refract.  Absolutely stunning!  With clouds creeping back over, the show was done and we struggled back up the 1.6km stairway to our car.

Stop 4 – Cruising the Cardwell Forest Drive

The next small beach town of Cardwell had a Forest Drive all of its own.  Veering off the Bruce Highway was a small loop that had a variety of pleasant swimming holes.  The first we found was Attie Creek.  700m up the track was a deep swimming hole with a complimentary rope swing and great ledges for cliff jumping! Already occupied by some backpackers we joined in the fun and jumped off the rocks.  All the water through this area was a stunning blue that seemed out of this world.

Back on the circuit we skipped the next stop, Dead Horse Creek, as we were running out of time and shot through to see the famous “Spa Pool”.  Created in combination of semi natural conditions and a man made idea, there was a small spa-like pool that had water flowing in from the creek.  We wished it only had a little more water flowing as the ‘jets’ weren’t too powerful!  This spa also flowed into a beautiful fresh water swimming pool which made for a very relaxing afternoon.

Back on the Bruce we continued north where we tucked into the Girramay National Park which was home to the Murray Falls.  Arriving late it was already getting dark so we just had enough time to set up and cook some grub.  Attempting a fire was too difficult as the wet rainforest didn’t provide any dry wood.  Instead we found ourselves in bed going to sleep to the calming rumble of the waterfalls only 300m away…

Coastal Queensland

The Rounding Up Of The Loop

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Slightly disheartened as there was no surf, we continued north and found ourselves at the great entrance of The Capricorn Caves.  Just above Rockhampton, these dry caves were renown for their beauty and hospitality to a variety of bat species.  From back in the 1980’s to the present day, they are also host weddings in a magnificant cathedral ‘room’ in the heart of the cave system.  With a creative light show, it was easy to feel how special and unique it would be to wed here.  Whilst in this room our tour guide turned off all of the lights so we could experience true pitch black!  The song “Music of the Night” was played and it was easy to slip away into another world as the acoustics of the cave engulfed us.

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Other points of interest along the way were creative shapes in the rock formation that were lit up.  Some of these were obviously seen (the rhino rock) and others you really had to stretch your imagination!  Trees above the Capricorn Caves had also sent root systems down to find water and over the years some had grown to a solid 2 inches thick and over 20m long!  In fact, they tracked down one of the longer sets of roots to a tree above that ended up only being a couple of meters high.  On a bouncy escape over a series of suspension bridges, Nay whispered to Mark that she had heard the old bloke in front of her step on some “frogs” as we squeezed through the zig zag tunnel (a tight ‘zig zag’ passage used as the exit).

The next day lead to an early rise as we had learnt about the opportunity to take an iconic Australian photo.  Upon sunrise, at a tucked away spot in Cape Hillborough, Kangaroos congregate on the beach for a morning feed.  The sight was picturesque but had a toll as the early morning rise lead us to sleeping on the beach until lunch.  As the afternoon arrived, we went for a 2.4km journey through the rainforest which was home to a bright blue winged butterfly (it felt like we were in the butterfly enclosure at the zoo!).  We even stumbled across a harmless tree snake slithering along the path! The return track of this journey was the way we came or a swim around the rocks as high tide had absorbed our sandy track that completed the loop.  With shoes off and valuables safe, we jumped in waste deep water and took the short cut!

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As the high tide dropped later in the arvo, a causeway had opened up and we took the opportunity for a walk out to Wedge Island.  Said to have good snorkling we tried our luck but it clearly wasn’t our day as we just ended up cutting our feet open on the rocks!  By the time we were back at the car, our hunger pains were cranking up, so we took off to find a spot to cook some grub. In our search we discovered a perfect spot behind a golf course with beach front views.

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Our next and final spot that completed the loop was the Eungella National Park.  With a steep 10km windy climb into the mountain range, we pulled up at the Broken River campground.  With a small 50m walk leading us to a fantastic viewing platform, we watched for the first time in the wild, the shyest native animal, the platypus!  After observing one splash around for a while, we decided to pulled out our mat with some more delicious goon and spend the evening by the river.  Here we continued to watch a few platypuses swim a mere 10m away from us.  It was such a spectacular experience.

Waking to a frosty 2 degrees (which was a total shock to our system!), we climbed back down the mountain to a walking trail that lead to The Wheel of Fire Waterfalls at Finch Hatton Gorge.  This was an overall 4.4km return walk, involving a steep climb with a section requiring us to hop scotch across stones as the path seemed to have washed away in the river.  At the end, we came face to face with our own private swimming hole and fresh water flowing in from the falls.  It was just unlucky that it was so bloody cold, we didn’t swim!   

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After visiting these calming waterfalls in the morning, we had a solid 5 hour drive that same day to make it to Townsville.  This section took us back past Airlie, where memories of great times with the Johnsies (only 2 weeks prior) flashed back and were discussed about in the car.  Making it to the Townsville Marina by 6:05, we were right on time to catch the barge to take us out onto Magnetic Island…