Tag Archives: Far North Queensland

A Bypass Through An Untouched National Park

Straight back onto the bumpy corrugated road we slowly became immune to the rattle of the car.  As long as we kept up our momentum, it lessened the pain.  It was almost like being in another country compared to Cairns, blue skies were out and the weather was a constant 31 degrees every day!

First stop off after Isabella was the historic site of Old Laura Station.  The remains of this old homestead were very much in tact.  Being able to freely walk through the grounds and buildings at no cost was something unusual for us since the east coast!  Taking photos of the blacksmith and stable yards in the winter, it was unimaginable of how tough it must of been in summer when Old Laura was flourishing.  Especially as it is so remote!

Arriving at Lakefield National Park we detoured past a lagoon blanketed in lilies.  Hearing this site had a residential croc, Mark was quick to spot it and we all had a perve on this impressive beast with Stu’s $6 binoculars.  Our first choice of a camp site that evening was at Kalpower Crossing.  After we were wrecked by the National Park booking system at the Ranger Base, we went for our second favourite spot at Hann River.  This was still an unbelievable spot to crank out a fire and relax.

Throughout this northern section of Australia there were copious amounts of termite mounds, majority built by Magnetic Termites.  These fascinating creatures build their enormous homes in a North to South direction.   After leaving Hann River we drove through the Nifold Plains.  Found here was a ridiculous amount of these mounds.  Hundreds upon hundreds in all directions.  A fine drop of our cask red on the car roofracks while watching a sunset behind these silhouettes would have been incredible.

One last stop in Lakefield for lunch at Sweetwater Creek, we were truly lucky to have great scenery surrounding us.  Unfortunately, upon departure a freak accident occured when a stick flung up under Buzz’s side step, smashing into the underside of the car.  With a bit of panel beating we were lucky enough to push it back into place!

Burning out of the National Park, we quickly found ourselves at Coen (Stu had been chanting “Co-en the saints!” theme song everytime this town was brought up).  After a short pit stop to restock on fuel and groceries we ducked beside a small river only 5km north of the township.  Having the 4WD luxury, we drove through the river and set up on the sandy banks.  By doing this, we were away from everyone else with our own private freshwater swimming hole.

Relocating to another river camp further along our corrugated nightmare of a road, we arrived at Archer.  WikiCamps pulled through with the goods again and lead us down a serious 4WD trail.  After hitting a pretty ordinary camp down one path, we decided to venture down the other where we lucked out and hit an amazing, beautiful oasis.  Another sandy waterhole that was even better than the one at Coen!

Pulling the hammock out for the first time we tied it to some trees over the river and had a great relaxing afternoon.  We even tried catching some small bait fish with a net but didn’t have much luck. Grabbing some firewood and using some red gum previously collected from our last spot, Stu got some coals cranking for dinner.  Putting on a delicious mouth watering chicken stew cooked in the camp oven, we were living the dream.  

In these past days, we made the most of our freshwater swims to clean ourselves up and escape the blistering heat.  As a change of scenery was on the itinerary, we were about to embark on an exploration that was to take us to a saltwater croc haven…

20/08/2016 – 23/08/2016

The Next Episode – Northward Bound With Buzz and Woody

Saying goodbye to civilisation for a while, we couldn’t resist going out for one last big night in Cairns with our new recruit Stu.  Once fully recovered, we stocked up with bucket loads of tinned food, cryovaced meat from the butcher (Stu’s idea) and long life consumables.  We dropped back down for two days at Babinda to wait for Stu’s custom made 4WD snorkel to be installed (worst destination to wait as it poured rain the entire time!)  Once the snorkel was on, we were off on the next episode, departing the Cairns region which gave us so many unforgettable memories.

Sadly, Brook was still very waterlogged from not having a break while we dived and the torrential rain at Babinda didn’t help.  She found herself back in her home on the roofracks.  The next couple of nights we snuck in car parks where a late night tent set-up was required.  Doing a dodgy with these camps we still had great views of the beach and daintree rainforest as we made way to the Bloomfield.  That night sitting in the Cape Tribulation car park before bed, we were chatting excitedly at what the famous 4×4 track had to offer.

In the previous days to the build up of our adventure, we read about the Bloomfield alternative, the CREB 4WD track.  Hearing this potential route had swallowed over a dozen cars in the past week and closed by the council, our path up north could be interesting.  With the first river crossing being the most serious, the rest was rather smooth sailing.  The Bloomfield was well looked after, although unsealed, it was in good nick.  After a few serious climbs and descents the trucks were having no trouble.  All round it was a fantastic adventure with great sights.  We were awestruck by mother nature, cruising along our surroundings went from lush, thick rainforest to instantly transforming to open forest (like that of the High Country)!  We were even lucky enough to see a sunbaking croc from the lookout!

Reaching the end of the track, we went to the Aboriginal town of Wujal Wujal which had a sign advertising ‘The names so good, you say it twice!’.  Stopping by another waterfall, Queensland clearly had a surplus of these cascading wonders.

After hearing about its great history and being the last major town to have sealed roads, we stopped off at Cooktown.  A breathtaking view from the lighthouse lookout and one last petrol refuel (before prices started getting ridiculous) we hit up Battle Camp Rd.  Waving a final goodbye to the bitumen, we started our brutal relationship with corrugations (previously reducing tyre pressure to 32 psi to ease the pain).

An hour and a half in we hit a pretty camp spot called Isabella Falls.  Here there was also a perfect fresh water swimming hole with an added bonus of no crocs!!  This little hideaway was awesome.  We took the opportunity to relax in the bush and stayed a few days not knowing when the next fresh swimmable waterhole may be.  Having decent fires to cook up a storm we enjoyed swimming through the day and refreshing beer in the arvo.

This next part of the story leaves a sad chip on the shoulder.  As Brook finally had the chance to see fresh air, we pegged her out to dry.  Unfortunately she had an awful gut wrenching tang to her.  We could only put it down to our diving in Cairns that she had been locked away for so long in humid wet conditions.  Sadly her fur was falling off and her time with us was over.  One last Kodak moment and we placed her back in the tub to dispose of her…RIP Brook.

As the days at Isabella Falls swept by, we watched cars burn past returning from the northern roads all caked with red dust and mud.  During a deep philosophical chat one evening, Stu with his cleverly depicted number plate suggested calling his car Woody.  A quick lookover of our car with all doors open and the rooftop tent out, it was looking like a spaceship and was quickly dubbed Buzz.  As Buzz and Woody were back on the road, we were keen to shoot down the main drag where these filthy red cars were coming from.  We were keen to see what Cape York had to offer…